UNDERCOVER Autumn/Winter 2025-26: A Magical Paris Fashion Week Moment
Paris Fashion Week @parisfashionweek is often filled with surprises. However, UNDERCOVER @undercover_lab stole the spotlight on March 4, 2025. The gorgeous Salle Wagram housed the brand’s Autumn/Winter 2025-26 collection, which featured a mix of dreamy, dramatic, and playful styles. Known for blending high fashion with edgy street style, UNDERCOVER’s designer Jun Takahashi @joniotakahashi once again gave us a show to remember. Below, I’ll take you through the brand’s background, and my own impressions of these standout pieces.
A Snapshot of the Show
Date and Venue
The UNDERCOVER show took place on Tuesday, March 4, 2025, at Salle Wagram in Paris. This historic venue set the stage for an evening of theatrical presentations, where each model walked out looking like a piece of art in motion.
Music to Enchant
Nina Simone, a great musician, wrote the runway music. This soundtrack created an intimate, soulful atmosphere that enhanced the collection’s magical mood.
The entire creative team worked together to make Jun Takahashi’s idea a reality. The overall effect was bold and dreamy, with each look adding depth to the overall atmosphere.
UNDERCOVER: A Brief Brand History
UNDERCOVER was founded in 1993 by Japanese designer Jun Takahashi. From the start, the brand was recognized for its distinct blend of streetwear, subculture inspirations, and high-end craftsmanship. Some define it as “high fashion with a rebellious spirit,” and I completely agree. Takahashi’s collections often express his love of punk music, surrealism, and expressive storytelling through clothing.
UNDERCOVER has emerged as one of Japan’s most important fashion exports. The brand’s products range from graphic T-shirts to meticulously created runway outfits. Collaborations are also an essential part of UNDERCOVER’s DNA; working with other artists and labels is a common subject. This new Autumn/Winter 2025-26 collection showcases such cooperation in a unique and original way.
My Personal Top 3 Looks
1. Golden Glamour and White Elegance
The first look that caught my attention (and perhaps everyone else’s) was a textured white dress with gold embellishments. It looked like a regal uniform reinvented for the modern runway. The jacket had a structured shape and brilliant gold accents, giving it a royal look. Delicate gold tassels swayed with each stride, and the matching pants had the same intricate workmanship. For me, this garment exemplified UNDERCOVER’s talent for making wearable art that also feels rebellious, like an alternate take on royal garb.
2. Electric Blue Meets Bohemian Print
Another outstanding look was a cozy yet distinctive suit with a fluffy electric blue jacket. It looked bright, almost like tinsel, and exuded a strong futuristic vibe. A pleated white maxi skirt with vibrant butterfly and floral designs sat beneath.
3. The Puffer Dress That Stole the Scene
Perhaps the most dramatic look was a voluminous maroon puffer dress shaped like a billowing cloud. Its sculptural silhouette was impossible to ignore, and it brought a sense of avant-garde energy to the runway. The shape bubbled around the model’s body in a way that felt both protective and futuristic. I also noticed the whimsical footwear decorated with leaves and berries, showcasing a collaboration with artist Anne-Valérie Dupond for some looks, while other shoes came from UNDERCOVER’s ongoing partnership with “foot the coacher.” It was a perfect example of the label’s ability to turn everyday materials into something truly unexpected.
Brand DNA: Rebellion Meets Refinement
UNDERCOVER’s DNA has always been about contrast—combining luxury and urban grit, or matching feminine aspects with masculine silhouettes. This collection embodies the same attitude, with soft pleats and powerful puffer shapes, regal gold embroidery and sporty silhouettes. It clearly reflects Jun Takahashi’s vision—he enjoys pushing limits and keeping us guessing. The brand’s motto could be “Expect the unexpected,” and the new lineup delivers on that promise.
Personal Reflections and the Mood of the Show
Sitting in among the guest I can feel the sense of suspense: the music, the lights, and the striking silhouettes. UNDERCOVER isn’t afraid to make statements. I love how Jun Takahashi often incorporates small, whimsical details that you might only notice when zooming in on photos—like tiny gold motifs on white fabrics or hidden layers in a skirt. Everything has a story, and it’s a feast for the eyes.
Why Do I Like This Collection?
- Artistry
UNDERCOVER treats fashion to an art form, transforming runway shows into gallery-like events. - Collaborative Spirit
The partnerships with footwear and jewelry artists highlight the brand’s open-minded approach and love for fresh perspectives. - Emotional Impact
By using strong music choices and theatrical silhouettes, each piece tells a story that resonates beyond the runway. - Wearability
Despite the bold looks, you can spot pieces that can be toned down for everyday life, like the champion sweatshirts or the simpler coats.
UNDERCOVER proves that clothing can be both art and comfort.
If you want to learn more about this amazing brand, you can purchase Jun Takahashi’s book Undercover on Amazon.
Photo Courtesy UNDERCOVER.
