The Untold Story of Julien Fournié: From Dreamer to Couture Star
“There’s No Fashion Without Freedom”: An Exclusive Interview with Julien Fournié
Julien Fournié @julienfournie is much more than a fashion designer. He’s a dreamer, a storyteller, and a creative force in Haute Couture @hautecoutureweek. Known for dressing top celebrities and transforming runway shows into magical experiences, his collections go beyond fashion—they’re living stories that bring together imagination and impeccable skill. But behind the stunning runway shows and jaw-dropping celebrity collaborations is a designer who never stops dreaming. However, who is the magician?
A Few Words About Julien Fournié
Julien Fournié is an influential voice in the world of Haute Couture. His way into fashion was anything but typical.
Believe it or not, he first studied medicine. But it didn’t take long for him to realize that fashion was his true passion. After working with big names like Jean-Paul Gaultier and Balmain, Julien knew it was the right time to start his own journey. In 2009, his couture house was born.
Since then, Julien Fournié has become known for his bold, dramatic, and theatrical collections that feel like stories come to life.
These days, it’s rare to see a red carpet without at least one A-list celebrity dressed in his gowns. Celebrities love his fearless style.
So, what makes Julien Fournié different from the others? He’s not afraid to mix fantasy with reality, turning every runway into something magical and unforgettable—something the fashion community talks about long after the show.
And he’s always thinking ahead. He knows how to blend traditional couture with digital innovation and even dive into the metaverse. Whether it’s a princess-inspired gown or a cutting-edge design, his work always pushes boundaries while staying true to the art of Haute Couture.
For Julien, fashion is all about freedom. It’s about creating your own world, pushing limits, and having the courage to be yourself—no matter what.
We are very delighted to ask him questions. In this exclusive interview, Julien opens up about his inspirations, his philosophy on fashion, and his experience working with celebrities. We find out why he believes fashion’s future is all about breaking the rules and what keeps him inspired year after year.
A Look at First Circus
First Circus is its own world. What’s the craziest thing that happened while making it?
There were so many! First of all, you should know that all the characters in this collection are inspired by the little figurines that always protected me and helped me grow as a child. They stood on the shelves in my bedroom and have remained etched in my mind ever since. Of course, they’ve evolved since I first adopted them. It was crazy to see them come to life during castings and fittings in the two weeks leading up to the show. I couldn’t believe my eyes: my vision came to life and I was stunned to see them in actual size. My dream had come true.
Another crazy thing happened just as we were finishing the collection, when the Gruss family, a reference in the Circus world, came to see the show. I called the collection First Circus because I wanted people to recapture the enthusiasm and fun they had when they were kids. I also wanted to express that the fashion world is a real circus!
Seeing a dozen bearded Anna Wintours turn up at my show was also pretty crazy, and especially funny when you consider that some fashion editors have been snubbing me for years.
What was also crazy was that almost 1,800 people could see this fashion show, as Thierry Mugler did in the 1990s.
Finally, everything that happened backstage was crazy. The rehearsals with the dancers, the participation of the celebrities who came into the fashion show, the enthusiasm of the audience. And also the fact that I broke my rib during the rehearsals. Fashion is a dangerous business!
What was the hardest look to create in this collection?
I’d have to say the clown woman in black and white. I wanted her to look as if she came straight out of a black and white film. The reason it was difficult to make her dress was that it was made up of several different Prince-de-Wales weaves, all of which had to match in tone or in the lines of the pattern. However, most of the outfits took weeks, if not months, to complete. That’s haute couture.
Which look from First Circus is your favorite?
Definitely the White Rabbit. I love this look. Firstly because it’s my nickname in the fashion world because I’m always afraid of being late, but also because we’ve made this Lewis Carroll character very modern. The bubble gun is also reflected in the embroidery on the jacket, and we also embroidered the rabbit’s head to make him more dangerous. Haute couture is all about fantasy and, with this look, we’ve pushed the boundaries of the art.
Tell us about the ‘exploded Joker’ look. What inspired it?
I’ve always been afraid of clowns, and the Joker is a fascinating character, at once naive, colorful and menacing. This collection also celebrates my 50th birthday. To be honest, I’m not a big fan of birthday parties. So the Joker is a representation of that. The embroidery on the jacket is inspired by a very colorful birthday cake, with cherries that look like they’ve been thrown on top. It was a great pleasure to design not only the structure of the jacket, but also its embellishments, choosing special embroidery techniques. It required such skill, but also the talent of the man who wore it: Christian Zaremba is not a model. He’s an opera singer whom I admire for his ability to interpret his characters, and he showed it on the catwalk. Even when he’s not using his powerful voice, he’s a wonderful interpreter.
Journey and Inspirations
What’s something surprising people don’t know about your early career?
Before following the classic path of designers for Haute Couture in Paris, I studied medicine for four years. I guess my knowledge and skills in anatomy and anatomical drawing greatly influenced the designer I became. Knowing the human body is essential to designing clothes. Some people talk about the architecture of clothing, but I think it’s more important to talk about the physics of clothing.
Many designers follow trends, but you don’t. Why does freedom matter so much to you?
Fashion designers, especially haute couture designers, are not meant to be trend followers. On the contrary, they’re supposed to create them. They’re supposed to be visionaries. Why should I be interested in following trends? That’s not my calling. That’s all there is to it!
Today, many people copy each other or follow trend books. As a result, some houses have lost their identity. It’s time for creative people to take back power.
How has your design style changed over the years?
I don’t think it’s really changed. Of course, the collections I did when I first started don’t quite resemble what I’m doing now. That’s because I have more resources at my disposal and I’m always more demanding of myself. My fans say that a Julien Fournié piece is recognizable at first glance, thanks to the construction of the garment.
Couture is about time, precision, and a little bit of magic.
Working with Celebrities
Do you remember the first celebrity who wore one of your designs? How did that feel?
I think it was Beyoncé, for an album cover. That was a long time ago. Obviously, it’s a pleasure, a form of recognition. Whether it’s a client or a celebrity, it’s important to me that the outfit matches the personality of the wearer.
The Future of Fashion and Haute Couture
Where do you see Haute Couture in 10 years?
If the taste for authentic craftsmanship and know-how continues, Haute Couture will once again be at the center of attention. Over the past decade, the public has learned to differentiate between the authentic quality of haute couture and pseudo-luxury items.
What’s your take on digital fashion—threat or opportunity?
It’s an incredible opportunity! I’ve been saying that for 16 years. If technological tools make it possible to organize fittings online, haute couture will be democratized and more accessible.
Fashion should be about creativity, not marketing strategies.
Personal Life and Style
Superheroes were a big part of your childhood. If you were a superhero, what would your costume look like?
I am a super dreamer. I would think of a superhero who could be a magician, someone like Mandrake, for instance.
What advice would you give to someone who wants to enter Haute Couture?
Are you ready to make Haute Couture the most important and only goal in your life?
I don’t follow trends. I create them.
Photo Courtesy Julien Fournié
