Ujoh FW25: A New Take on ’90s Rebellion at Paris Fashion Week
If you ever wore a school uniform—or wished you could style it your own way—Ujoh’s Fall-Winter 2025 collection might speak straight to your heart. This season, Aco and Mitsuru Nishizaki @ujoh_nishizaki , the creative duo behind Ujoh @ujoh.official, revisited the spirit of ’90s Japanese youth culture—when students quietly broke dress codes to form their own identities. What was the result? A runway filled of ingenious layering, unexpected details, and a sense of freedom reminded us that uniforms can be so much more than boring black-and-whites.
The Brand: Ujoh & Its Founders
Ujoh began in 2009 when Mitsuru Nishizaki and Aco, both longtime pattern makers, decided it was time to design on their own terms. The name may not be as historic as some century-old homes, but the brand’s approach to tailoring, asymmetry, and function rapidly drew attention. Since their debut at Paris Fashion Week in 2021, they have consistently showcased collections that are refined yet quietly daring.
Their ethos revolves around a simple idea: Let the clothes mold seamlessly to the human form. Whether it’s a shirt with a transformable collar or pants featuring an off-kilter silhouette, every item has a reason for being. The brand’s men’s line also echoes core uniform or military references—like a crisp button-down or a cargo pocket—except reimagined with a refined twist. Basically, if you like hidden details or subtle references, you’ll love Ujoh.
The FW25 Runway Show & Collection
’90s Nostalgia Meets Tailored Cool
This season, the duo took inspiration from Japan’s rebellious ’90s school uniform culture, in which pupils discreetly modified their looks in order to stand out. Try giant oversized cardigans layered over asymmetrical skirts, or leg warmers resembling the once-infamous loose socks. Even if you’ve never been to a Japanese school, there’s something universal about the joy of breaking style rules just enough to feel unique.
Fabrics & Materials
- Brushed Flannel Twill: A robust yet soft fabric that calls to mind worn-in uniform jackets.
- Textured Jacquard: With threads and ribbons cut by hand, giving it a fur-like relief.
- Wool Gabardine: Finished with a waxed treatment for a dense but flexible feel.
- Innovative Quilting: Using recycled polyamide fibers for plush volume reminiscent of a cozy winter school coat.
Styling Highlights
- Oversized Knits: Think pulling on your older sibling’s sweater, but with intentional shaping.
- Modular Plastrons: Ties that can be cinched or left to drape, symbolizing fluid, ever-changing identity.
- Shirts With Transformative Details: Button plackets morph into ties or lavallières at the wrist—handy if you feel like switching up your look mid-day.
- Embroidered Tulips: A sweet nod to a Japanese tradition where each child cares for a tulip bulb; at Ujoh, it’s a subtle flourish with a romantic twist.
- Silver Badge: For the first time, Ujoh introduced a logo-engraved silver badge, cheekily riffing on school crests.
Color Palette
In typical Ujoh fashion, the base tones were deep and timeless—think dark chocolate, taupe, bottle green, navy—but with bright punctuation marks in electric lime, sky blue, and delicate beige. Together, they told a story of rebellious teens unafraid of color in a world that wants them to blend in.
A Little Personal Perspective
You know how sometimes you see a runway that feels purely conceptual and unwearable? This wasn’t that. Yes, the references to leg warmers and elongated cardigans might be a tad nostalgic, but the cuts were fresh, not fussy. The brushed flannel? So plush, you’ll want to cuddle up in it ASAP. I also loved the subtle ways they used embroidered tulips—it’s a sweet symbol of care and growth, which is ironically apt for a brand exploring what it means to come of age in style.
Ujoh remains a brand to watch if you dig hidden details and like to play with layering. Plus, there’s something inherently cool about wearing a piece that references the rebellious teens of another era. It’s like wearing a small slice of history—except you’re free to break all the rules yourself.
There’s nothing timid about quiet rebellion—Ujoh gets that.
Full show you can watch here:
